Typically billiard cues are made of a two-piece construction each equal in length. The shaft is the narrower piece with a cue tip attached at the end and the female portion of the joint connection. The butt is the larger end with a rubber on the very bottom of the end and the protruding screw portion of the joint connection. The reason for the construction is convenience. Because the billiard cue can be broken down into two pieces, they make the cue easier to store and carry.
The ferrule is the solid white section at the end of the shaft, which supports the tip and acts as a cushion from the force of the impact of the tip against the ball. This protects the shaft from splintering, warping or breaking. On antique billiard cues the ferrule will be made from ivory, but on today’s billiard cues the best ferrules are made from a solid plastic, which is glued to the top of the shaft.
There are some ferrules, which are made hollow inside and are somewhat wider than the shaft in order for them to slip on and off. This makes it easier to change, but they are inferior and you will want to avoid them at all cost. The do not absorb the impact of the shots badly and will cause the billiard cue to vibrate in the player’s hands as they make their shots.
The scraping of the chalk cube against it can mar ferrules, however it is easy to remove with some non-abrasive toothpaste. Just rub it on with your fingers and it will remove the chalk stains and dirt. Then gently rub the surface with a soft cloth, rag or towel. Do not use any water on the ferrule.
You will notice shafts taper as you move along the shaft to the tip. There are three different ways for a cue to taper and each offer a different play potential to the pool shooter.
The first is called the standard taper. This is the taper you will see on the majority of pool cues. It is thinnest at the ferrule end of the shaft and increases gradually in diameter and will reach it maximum diameter a foot from the joint or at the joint connection.
The second is called the pro taper. This type of taper comes on most of the cheaper billiard cues. The pro taper maintains the diameter for about the first 12 inches from the ferrule. The name of the taper belies the actual taper.
The third is called the double taper. This taper narrows starting a few inches from the tip and then widens and then narrows and widens again. This make the thinnest portion in the middle of the shaft.
Because of the additional work on the shaft of the cue, it may increase the cost. If you are a beginner you needn’t spend the extra money on this type of shaft.
Billiard cues can come equipped with shafts, which are more flexible than their finger, which bends. Then it will spring back into shape following the shot. You can see the stick as it torques when it hits the ball putting a forceful spin on the ball. A shaft with this much flexibility the cue tip will remain on the cue ball longer. Some players want this much flexibility because they are able to put a spin on the ball with very little effort.
For those who prefer stiffer shaft, shafts are made with the reputation of hitting as solid as a rock. The hundred-dollar billiard cue usually has a shaft somewhere in middle between the two opposite types of shafts.